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Wednesday, January 1, 2020

Boston loses when landmarks close doors - Boston Herald

As a new year begins, an era in Boston dining comes to an end.

No Name Restaurant announced that it’s closing after more than a century in business.

For many Bostonians and visitors to the city, a trip to South Boston’s Fish Pier for a bowl of their famous chowder, a broiled seafood platter, or a boiled lobster was a must. As new students hit the city each fall, a trip to No Name was often one of their first tastes of Boston, and families ordered off the menu for generations.

A quintessential part of the city’s dining culture, the menu featured such classic Boston dishes as scrod, with grapenut pudding for dessert.

“We want to thank our generations of customers for all the years of loyal patronage, and for helping make the No Name a landmark location,” management wrote on the restaurant’s Facebook page Monday.

“It has been an honor to be part of your celebrations and your everyday lives for so many years.”

The restaurant was founded in 1917 by Nick Contos to feed fishermen at the end of the work day, according to the restaurant’s website. It was run by the Contos family until the end.

It’s not the first long-running Hub restaurant to close, and it probably won’t be the last. As the Boston Herald’s J.Q. Louise reported, Doyle’s and Durgin Park also shuttered in 2019. L’Espalier closed after service on New Year’s Eve, 2018. In the Seaport neighborhood, Jimmy’s Harborside closed in 2005 and Anthony’s Pier 4 closed in 2013.

The eateries that often take their place, or add their footprint to the city in different locations, are modern, of-the-moment restaurants with trendy menus. This is the age of the Instagrammable meal, after all.

There’s nothing wrong with new restaurants and cutting-edge cuisine — just like there’s nothing inherently wrong with new condos, hotels and office towers. But there should be room for both innovation and tradition in Boston.

When places like No Name, Durgin Park, Doyle’s and L’Espalier close their doors in a hyper-competitive restaurant climate, we lose some of the flavor of Boston. We lose a slice of history.

Boston was once a hot dinner and dancing scene, back in the day. There are many who still remember Blinstrub’s in South Boston, at the corner of D and West Broadway. Sinatra sang there, as did Judy Garland. It opened in 1934 — when No Name was about two decades old, and was destroyed by fire in 1968.

There was Steubens on Boylston near Tremont, home to the Vienna Room and Cafe Midnight in the ’40s. Nearby, at Boylston Place, stood the Hi-Da-Way restaurant and nightclub. It served Jamaica Rum Sherbet, which sounds wonderful. Both swept away by the tides of change.

As No Name’s website explains, the restaurant was established “shortly before the First World War — and a solid year before Harry Frazee sold babe Ruth to the New York Yankees.”

You won’t get that provenance from a giant chain, or a pop-up. They have their place, but so too did No Name and its venerable culinary brethren. And the feast that is Boston is a bit blander for their loss.

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"when" - Google News
January 01, 2020 at 12:44PM
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Boston loses when landmarks close doors - Boston Herald
"when" - Google News
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